was successfully added to your cart.

Granola, In A Rosewater Envelope

By May 3, 2009Cooking

20090426_granola_0005

So, I had so much fun with this one I’m not sure entirely where to begin.

The original dish as described by the Alinea Cookbook is called “Granola, in a Rosewater Envelope”. The idea of an edible envelope coupled with the beautiful and delicate photo of the dish made it immediately appealing. That, and it looked weird and hard and just the thing to captivate an obsessive-compulsive like myself.

The granola recipe is fairly straightforward; it took me a couple of tries to make it only because apparently granola is a high-maintenance endeavor and you have to babysit it as it cooks lest you end up with burnt oats. It’s made with “Old-fashioned steel-cut oats”, which are tough to find in NZ. Commonsense can import them from Australia; they’re referred to as “Coarse Oatmeal”. New Zealand can’t produce steel-cut oats because the process for making them requires a firmer oat than can be grown here. The recipe calls for hot and ‘sweet’ curry powder, the latter of which I couldn’t find so substituted with mild curry powder. Also included were wildflower honey, cinnamon, and other more-delicate spices that I looked forward to tasting, but in the end the batch tasted overwhelmingly like curry and little else.

The Rosewater Envelope was pretty fascinating and surprisingly easy to make; the basic idea is that you make a gelatin-like solid gel of the mixture, blend it (which turns it into something resembling pudding), then dehydrate it. 8 hours later, you have something resembling leathery plastic.

20090426_granola_0010

The whole thing, once assembled, was what I’d call off-balance. The rose water envelope was delicate and calm, then all of a sudden I felt like I got hit by a curry truck. Your grandma at a Kiss concert. Not really right at all. Also, while the assembled envelope was very pretty, I felt like it was a bit too frosted; I wanted to see what was inside. It also lacked a bit of color.

So I made a list of things I wanted to try to improve on the second go-around, and set up to try again.

For the second try, I wanted to try making the envelopes out of Orange Blossom Water. I also wanted to try to get a bit more color into the envelope itself, so I thought I’d try drying various herbs and spices into the orange blossom water film. Finally, I wanted the granola to be different; since I can’t find sweet curry powder, I thought I’d just deviate completely and go with ingredients I know.

The first thing I didn’t like about my original granola was the fact that I couldn’t taste any honey. I LOVE honey, and wanted it to be a recognizable ingredient. In the name of SCIENCE, I also decided I needed to research the best type of honey for my project. I wanted something inherently unique; something that reflected the coolest of what our country has to offer down here:

2009_05_03_alinearosewater_1569

Guys. Contemporaneous honey tasting = AWESOME. I sat in my living room floor yesterday afternoon with a small spoon, studiously tasting each one. The ones I thought I’d like the most (Pohutukawa and Wild Thyme) turned out the be the ones I actually DID like the most. The Blue Borage honey was floral but bitter, and the Manuka honey was tasty but too familiar. I wanted something interesting and different, and the one I ended up going with was the Wild Thyme; it’s robust and has similar notes as Clover honey, but also something special that I can’t quite articulate.

Once the honey issue was sorted, I started thinking a bit about the other flavors I wanted. After making a few dishes from a different cookbook for Movida in Melbourne, I’ve become a pretty big fan of paprika. It unfolds slowly, not entirely unlike a flower, and I liked the idea that it would give room for a person to taste the honey up front before it kicked in. For heat I substituted Chipotle spice for the curry powder.

For the envelopes, I wanted to try embedding things in the film to add color and interest. I sprinkled some thyme leaves on some, some lime zest on others, and some cinnamon and paprika on others. Flavor-wise, they don’t contribute a ton, but they looked pretty.

2009_05_03_alinearosewater_1585

Once assembled, I have to say I preferred the second batch. The envelopes had the same come-on-slowly-and-delicately vibe that the rosewater ones did. The granola, however, felt much more balanced, and had more of a ‘story arc’. This isn’t to impugn the original recipe, but rather my realization of it.

Oh, I almost forgot the most ridiculous part. So, the first time through, my envelopes had teensy bubbles that contributed to them being frosted. So I posted a note on the Alinea  forums (Yeah, the chefs of the restaurant have an online forum, in which you can ask them and other contemporaries questions directly). One chef suggested removing the bubbles by putting the gel under vacuum before dehydrating it.

So I built a vacuum chamber to try doing exactly that.

2009_05_03_alinearosewater_1578

Almost as exciting as removing the bubbles from my envelopes was trying to remove the chamber from my countertop…I forgot to build a release valve into it. But eventually it came loose.

2009_05_03_alinearosewater_1596

Join the discussion 5 Comments

  • Andy Matuschak says:

    I’m enjoying the posts and photography very much! Keep ’em coming.

  • francisco says:

    they have an open forum?! that is wicked cool.
    keep up the good work.

  • […] tough to dissect. Rather, Alinea’s dishes are deliberate and paced. A friend described the Envelope and Granola dish as a “parade of flavors”, and he was so dead on. This dish starts with the […]

  • Carrie SB says:

    You built a vacuum chamber? I’m sending this post to everyone I know who have even remotely hinted that I am a tad over-keen on some techniques, just because I heat my baking flour under reptile lights to get the correct protein content for cakes to rise properly, put my mushrooms under UV lights, am experimenting with dehydrating food using infrared light/heat and have racked together a sand and charcoal gravity filter to get the water I need to make an untainted elderflower cordial.

    *small voice* – if you were minded to describe how you built your own vacuum chamber, you have possibly have some idea how absurdly thrilled I would be.

  • […] flavorful and nicely-balanced. I really enjoy it with a tasting platter of some of NZ’s Honeys. This entry was written by Allen, posted on December 5, 2009 at 11:13 pm, filed under […]