Monthly Archives: May 2012

Pork Cheek, Pumpernickel, Gruyere, Ramps

Francisco and I were party to a conversation last week about umami. “Umami”, a loanword from Japanese umami (うま味) –meaning “delicious taste”, is something you hear people like Heston Blumenthal or Tom Colicchio use in the latest Food Network show du jour without much explanation or elaboration. It’s often described vaguely as “the fifth taste”, and […]

Octopus, Eggplant, Beans, Soy

It feels like the further I wade into these later dishes, the more I need to rely on solid cooking fundamentals and less on white powders. While still fun, I sometimes miss the white-powdery stuff (edible films, crispy puffs, liquid nitrogen)…i.e. the flashy weird stuff. This dish is actually fairly straightforward and quick to make, […]

Heart Of Palm, In Five Sections

A few people have mentioned curiosity about the photography side of this project, so rather than detail the production of the dish itself (I cooked a bunch of shit, then plated it. It was hard.), I thought I might talk a little about the other side of things for me. Since moving to the Bay […]

Lobster, Tropical Fruits, Meyer Lemon, Heart of Palm

I’ve been eyeing this dish since early December; the photos in the book are eye-poppingly vibrant, and several of the tropical fruits were familiar to me because of time in New Zealand. Appealing too was the bulk of the recipe, which is basically “Acquire exotic fruit, cut into interesting shapes.” As I sifted through the […]