{"id":3663,"date":"2012-12-14T11:16:41","date_gmt":"2012-12-14T19:16:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/?p=3663"},"modified":"2016-06-30T10:50:04","modified_gmt":"2016-06-30T17:50:04","slug":"bitters-en-sous-vide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/2012\/12\/bitters-en-sous-vide\/","title":{"rendered":"Bitters, En Sous Vide"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3668\" src=\"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0020.jpg\" alt=\"20121211_parkAveProvisions_0020\" width=\"800\" height=\"476\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0020.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0020-400x238.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0020-768x457.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0020-500x298.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>In continuing with my little sidecar Bitters adventure I&#8217;ve been on: I recently participated with some friends in a craft fair; these friends and I have each been experimenting with making Bitters this year, so we thought it might be fun to collaborate on a &#8220;cocktail kit&#8221;. One of the friends is a fairly accomplished (and incredibly knowledgeable) bartender, so her idea was to come up with several interesting Bitters flavors, accompany them with some equally-interesting flavored syrups, and then develop some cocktail recipes that made use of everything.<\/p>\n<p>Because we had a deadline to have everything ready, in the interest of buying myself more iteration time I pressed forward with my experiments to shorten the process of making bitters. I was recently at dinner at Haven in downtown Oakland and was chatting with the bartender about his house-made bitters and\u00a0liqueurs; I asked him how he made his\u00a0liqueurs, and he mentioned leveraging the kitchen&#8217;s sous vide setup to rapid-infuse spirits with fruits. When I got home I immediately started searching the intertubez for more information about this, curious if anyone had tried this technique for making bitters (or, at least, if they had written about it). I couldn&#8217;t find much; there was <a href=\"http:\/\/www.jacobgrier.com\/blog\/archives\/2605.html\" target=\"_blank\">one article<\/a> wherein the author describes using sous vide with gin and juniper to heighten the juniper flavor (assisted by the\u00a0inimitable\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.lazybearsf.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">David Barzelay<\/a>, I was excited to find), which was all I needed to confirm that this was probably Science Worth Doing.<\/p>\n<p>I came up with three flavor profiles I wanted to play with:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>&#8220;Napa&#8221; bitters, made with rosemary, fennel, fig, and black pepper, aged in a port wine barrel that a friend loaned me<\/li>\n<li>&#8220;Bay&#8221; bitters, made with bay leaf, apple, date, and juniper berries<\/li>\n<li>&#8220;Granny&#8221; bitters, made with rose, pistachio, vanilla, and walnut<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>My friends came up with a few others:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"line-height: 13px;\">&#8220;Manhattan&#8221; bitters, containing traditional flavors of clove, vanilla, cardamom, orange<\/span><\/li>\n<li>&#8220;Barbados&#8221; bitters, made from rum, lime, and various Tiki-style flavors<\/li>\n<li>&#8220;Temple&#8221; bitters, stemming from the idea of making bitters from Grenadine<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3674\" src=\"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0002.jpg\" alt=\"20121211_parkAveProvisions_0002\" width=\"851\" height=\"315\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0002.jpg 851w, https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0002-400x148.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0002-768x284.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0002-500x185.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 851px) 100vw, 851px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;d never made any of these before, and all my recipes for bitters are measured to account for a slow, 4-week-long infusion process. I wanted to try sous-vide, but wasn&#8217;t sure what temperature to aim for, how long it should take, or how much product I needed for the infusion. I started with the same amounts called for in the slow-infusion recipes, and arbitrarily chose 135F and 2 hours as starting points for my experiments.<\/p>\n<p>These values turned out to be not-too-far off the mark. The most obvious thing I noticed from this approach is that some ingredients infused extremely well (vanilla, juniper berries, the fruits), while others came out tasting &#8216;cooked&#8217; (the bay and rosemary especially). Their contribution was clear and present but some of the more-delicate notes you get from super-fresh herbs was lost. The ingredient that suffered the most was the rose petals; their delicate scent was crushed under the weight of the nuts and vanilla.<\/p>\n<p>The cool thing was that I didn&#8217;t have to start over; I just built on top of the foundation the sous vide offered. I added more rose petals, rosemary, bay, and other ingredients that I felt didn&#8217;t stand up to the heat, and let this mix infuse at room temperature for a few days. The good thing is that herbs infuse much more quickly than &#8216;hard&#8217; spices or woods, so I could divide the process into two fast steps: sous vide infusion of hearty flavors, then cold infusion of delicate stuff. Plus, because I was building on a layer of cooked herbs, there was quite a bit of depth and complexity to their notes. In the end I was pretty happy with each of the flavors, and we came up with some nice cocktails to build off them. The Napa one I felt was the most interesting and well-balanced, while the Rose one (while I personally really loved it) was more of a challenge (Rose is a really polarizing flavor, and it&#8217;s tough to wrangle it with other ingredients).<\/p>\n<p>We paired our bitters flavors with 4 flavored syrups to use in place of traditional simple syrup. Some of the cocktails flavor pairings we came up with were:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"line-height: 13px;\">Brandy, Gin, Lemon, Napa Bitters, Late Harvest Cordial (a syrup made from reduced Zinfandel wine from a local vineyard)<\/span><\/li>\n<li>Mezcal, Lime, Cinnamon-Vanilla Syrup, Granny Bitters<\/li>\n<li>Bourbon, Demerara Syrup, Bay Bitters<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3665\" src=\"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0010.jpg\" alt=\"20121211_parkAveProvisions_0010\" width=\"800\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0010.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0010-400x263.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0010-768x504.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0010-500x328.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Sarah helped brand everything for us, and we chose the name &#8220;Park Avenue Provisions&#8221; to sell under (the craft fair was on Park Avenue in Emeryville). It ended up going pretty well and we sold out of most of what we&#8217;d made, which was pretty surprising\/cool to me! Maybe I&#8217;ll try this again next year&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In continuing with my little sidecar Bitters adventure I&#8217;ve been on: I recently participated with some friends in a craft fair; these friends and I have each been experimenting with&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":3668,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-3663","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-uncategorized"},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/12\/20121211_parkAveProvisions_0020.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pwfL0-X5","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3663","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3663"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3663\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5319,"href":"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3663\/revisions\/5319"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3668"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3663"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3663"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.allenhemberger.com\/alinea\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3663"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}